Amarena Cherry Gelato

Gelato - the very word sets those devotees of frozen desserts, palates to watering! You don’t have to go to Italy to eat authentic gelato - you can make it at home!

Gelato is just ice cream with a few traditional differences, as we were told in a cooking class in Florence. As Florence is considered the birthplace of Gelato, they should know. It’s claimed that in the 16th century the “serpent” queen, Catherine d’Medici ordered a dessert to dazzle visiting foreign dignitaries. A cook by the name of Bernardo Buontalenti created a form of the modern gelato for the occasion. His frozen dessert impressed the court of Catherina de Medici suggesting that even she had her sweet side. From there the recipe spread across Italy and then the rest of Europe. Shops began opening and the traditional recipe passed from father to son for generations.

Although gelato actually translates to “frozen” or “ice cream”, don’t assume that just because a shop claims they sell gelato that they do. Even gelatos are not all the same. Gelato should be smoother, creamier and softer than ice cream with more intense flavors.

This is achieved by containing a lower milk fat content than ice cream (less cream and more milk) in the base mixture which yields a softer, denser texture and smaller ice crystals. A slower churning process results in less air in the final product, making it denser and richer in flavor. The base generally does not include eggs, but it can. Gelaterias also keep their cases at a warmer temperature than most ice cream shops, which contributes to gelato’s silkier texture.

The hardest part about gelato is choosing the flavor you would like. I chose Amarena Cherry for this post as I just recently ate one almost daily from different gelaterias in Italy and loved every one, so rich and dense in flavor.

And the cherry - also Italian. The Amarena cherry is a cherry grown in Bologna and developed by Gennaro Fabbri in 1869. His wife, Rachele, took over an old general store in Portomaggiore, which was near a wild black cherry orchard. She picked the cherries then cooked them in sugar in copper pots. To thank his wife for the treat, her husband bought her a white and blue ceramic jar from an artist, which became the trademark container for the cherries and syrup as they started their small company. That same white and blue jar is used to sell the cherries today. They are usually bottled in syrup and used as a decoration on rich chocolate desserts. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself eating the cherries right from the jar, which is fine but just save enough for the gelato!

Amarena Cherry Gelato

4 1/2 cups whole milk

1/2 cup heavy or whipping cream

3 egg yolks (optional - creates a bit creamier gelato but is not traditionally used)

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup white granulated sugar

1/3 cup Amarena cherries without juice, cut in half

3 tablespoons Amarena cherry syrup

pinch of salt

-Start heating up the milk and the cream together in a medium saucepan, over medium high heat, stirring frequently.

-Combine the sugar and cornstarch together in a small bowl. Add about 1/2 cup of the warm milk/cream mixture to the dry ingredients and mix well with a small wire whisk, until smooth. (If using egg yolks add them to this mixture and beat with a whisk very well until yolks are well incorporated.)

-Add the sugar/cornstarch mixture to the saucepan with the rest of the milk, and with a large whisk mix into the milk/cream. Cook together, stirring constantly until your liquid thickens slightly. Remove just before the mixture begins to boil (about 10 minutes). Set aside and let cool for 15 minutes.

-Stir cherries and cherry juice into the cream mixture with a small pinch of salt. Let gelato base cool down until it reaches room temperature. To cool faster, place pot or bowl with gelato base in it, into an ice bath and stir frequently. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 4 - 6 hours until very well chilled.

-If using an electric ice cream maker, chilling the gelato base for 1 hour in the refrigerator after it reaches room temperature, is enough. Pour the base into your ice cream machine as it is running and continue to let it churn for about 40 minutes until gelato is smooth and creamy, about the consistency of Greek yogurt. Spoon into a plastic container with a lid and smooth out the surface. Cover with the lid. Place in the freezer for at least 45 minutes before serving. If frozen for longer, let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.

-If making gelato by hand pour the gelato base into a plastic container with a lid. Place in the freezer for about 5 hours, removing it from the freezer every 30 minutes and mix with a spatula or whisk for about 30 seconds. Smooth out the surface of the gelato and return it to the freezer. Repeat every 30 minutes. (This breaks up the frozen surface and any ice crystals that have formed to create a smooth and creamy gelato as opposed to a grainy one.)

-Serves 6 - 8

Mix the milk and cream and slowly heat over medium heat.

When the gelato base is thickened, remove from the heat and stir in the cherries and cherry juice.

Place the pan or metal bowl with the gelato base into an ice bath in another bowl and stir with a whip to help it cool down quickly. Place in the refrigerator to chill well.

Step aside Italy….here comes a wonderful gelato!